Our previous trip to Paris didn’t go smoothly. Dinner began at nine, while our kids were ready for bed by seven. Half of the family preferred playing school in the apartment rather than strolling along the Seine. We’d both learned and grown in the nearly three years since that trip, and this visit was much better—but still imperfect. We don’t eat meat, which can complicate dining in France, and it’s hard to visit Paris without bringing some expectation along with you.
And yes—unexpectedly—some of the kids picked up lice. Not something we planned for, and a reminder that travel can include surprises.
Below are the practical things that worked for our family and the parts that didn’t, in case you’re planning a trip with children.
Getting to Paris with kids
What worked
Train travel. If you’re moving between European cities, trains are comfortable and efficient. We left Amsterdam mid-morning and arrived at Gare du Nord by lunchtime, right into the heart of Paris. The trip offered pleasant views of the Dutch and Belgian countryside and convenient city-center arrival.
What didn’t work
Walking 2.5 miles from the station to our Airbnb in hot weather with young children and heavy luggage. A navigation app promised a straight line, but that didn’t account for protests, heat, tired kids, or lots of bags. When we finally reached the flat—owned by a refined Parisian couple—we were exhausted and sweaty. Lesson: don’t underestimate the practicality of taxis or public transit when you have children and luggage.
Where to stay in Paris with kids
What worked
Renting an apartment in a residential neighborhood. Staying in an Airbnb let us live like locals, relax between outings, and prepare meals when needed. Having a true home base made the days more sustainable for everyone. Our flat in the 11th arrondissement gave us neighborhood rhythm and easy Metro access to major sights.
What didn’t work
Kitchen knives in rentals are rarely as sharp as those at home. If you plan to cook, bring or buy a good knife—or adjust expectations.
Where to eat in Paris with kids
What worked
Shopping locally and cooking simple meals at the apartment balanced out dining out. We still indulged in Parisian treats and classic stops that are worth the experience.
Berthillon
For ice cream, Berthillon on Île Saint-Louis remains exceptional. Many island shops serve it, and the original Maison Berthillon offers the full experience. Perfect for a hot afternoon and a family treat.
Ladurée
For macarons, Ladurée is still an iconic stop. It’s touristy, especially on the Champs-Élysées, but enjoyable if you want that classic Parisian moment.
La Pâtisserie Cyril Lignac
We were lucky to have the celebrated La Pâtisserie Cyril Lignac near our flat. Their pastries were outstanding—some of the best pain au chocolat we’ve had. We didn’t dine at the chef’s meat-forward bistro across the street, but the bakery alone was a highlight.
Café Saint-Régis
For a friendly, Parisian bistro experience on Île Saint-Louis, Café Saint-Régis was welcoming and pleasantly authentic. It’s priced for visitors, but the relaxed bistro vibe suited our family well.
What didn’t work
Eating out without meat can be tricky in Parisian restaurants. The city has international options, but finding vegetarian adaptations of classic French dishes can be a challenge. We also found ourselves shopping at a less charming grocery store more often than hoped—though delightful local markets are plentiful if you seek them out.
Outings in Paris with kids
What worked
Parks and historic spots with playgrounds were consistently successful. We planned short outings that included playtime and treats—perfect for little attention spans and tired legs.
Jardin des Tuileries
The Tuileries is not only beautiful but child-friendly, with a fun playground that kept the kids happy while adults enjoyed the classical gardens and views of the Louvre.
Place des Vosges
Place des Vosges impressed with architecture, live classical music, and a small playground. It’s an elegant square where kids can play while adults soak in the atmosphere.
Le Jardin du Luxembourg
The Luxembourg Gardens delivered classic family entertainment: a puppet theater, pony rides, and open space. The puppet show delighted young children even if my French comprehension was partial. Pony rides were a big hit—though shared helmets later raised concerns when lice showed up back home. Lice can take weeks to appear, so helmets are a possible vector; it’s a good reminder to be cautious with shared headgear.
Family walks
Leisurely walks that lasted no more than a couple of hours and included playgrounds or ice cream were ideal. Strolling Île Saint-Louis, exploring the Notre Dame backyard, and wandering along the Seine offered beautiful views and occasional music or play areas. We visited the Eiffel Tower base without ascending—sometimes seeing a landmark from below is enough with kids. These compromises kept the trip relaxed and enjoyable.
Overall, this trip proved that traveling with children in Paris can be delightful when you balance a few classic sights with ample time for play, rest, and treats. Go with flexible expectations, prioritize a comfortable home base, and plan shorter outings. You’ll return tired but happy, and likely plotting your next visit.
